Russian North – Day 2: The Village of Pogost and Kolodozero

Today we will visit the Church of the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary on the bank of the Kolodozero in the village of Pogost. This place is loved by artists, photographers and musicians. And most importantly, masters of wooden architecture, who with their own hands and revive the Russian North. Some years ago something changed here forever, but the doors of the old house are still open to everyone. In the evening, we'll have dinner in Kargopol.
Russian North

Trip duration: 6 days

Ksenia Beskova

Устье реки Андома


It flows into Lake Onega and resembles the sea on a scale. The river is easily accessible, so we decided to start the day with admiring the river landscapes. It turned out that the place is rather tourist, there are people with tents in the forest.

Шальский Пляж


And on this beach, we didn't meet any people, which is weird enough. The beach is accessed through a village of wooden buildings. Pure sand, the smell of pine trees and saggy one-storey houses right on the cliff.

Guest House Poonezhye

Кафе Вытегра


The dining room. Self-service. Sticky tablecloths on the tables, but clean and nourishing.

Tserkov' Rozhdestva Presvyatoy Bogoroditsy

The lake edge. The village of Pogost. Guest house built in 1926. Previously guests from Moscow, Peter, Estonia, Hamburg came here for church holidays. The house was rarely empty, being a haven for people who were confused and simply wanted to have a rest from the city fuss. Only Arkady Shlykov lived here all year round, and he also served in the church on the bank of the Kolodozero, which he built himself. The church was never closed. He ran the farm, looked after the old people, orphanages, played football with local boys. In February 2018, Father Arkady was gone. His friends now live in the big house, their doors are also open for travelers. A huge library and a collection of films. There's a samovar on the table. Drinking tea and watching Antonioni's movies.

У Егеря

Russian Restaurants

Tiny evening Kargopol. Late dinner. One of the few places in town that works late.