Across the Nebrodi Hills to Catania

As you’re crossing the Nebrodi Hills, a high 16-kilometer-long viaduct will take you into Mistretta, the largest village in the area. The picturesque old center is unspoiled by contemporary development, so enjoy a tranquil break from driving here.

Bronte was built by Charles V in 1535 and many vestiges of its old plan remain, notably in the numerous battlemented and pointed campanili that top its aged churches. The town was named after the English admiral Nelson, Duke of Bronte, and his ducal residence lies a few kilometers north of town.
Otherwise, Bronte's primary claim to fame these days is as the center of Italy's pistachio-nut production: the plantations around town account for 85 percent of the country's output but are only harvested in the early October of odd-numbered years. The emerald green Pistacchi Verdi di Bronte DOP was designated as a national treasure by Italy's Slow Food Foundation for Biodiversity.
It’s no surprise that the village is surrounded by acres of pistachio orchards. Shop around for local specialties like pistachio ice cream, pistachio cake, or pistachio arancini.
Trivia: The town's seeming resemblance to the literary Bronte sisters is no accident. Their father, Patrick Prunty, was a Nelson admirer who changed his name in his honor.

Before leaving Bronte, stop for lunch at Protosteria. Try the fresh pasta or any of their authentic Southern Italian dishes.
The restaurant is closed only on Tuesdays. On all the other days, it's open for lunch from 12 to 3 pm. It also serves dinner from 7 to 11 pm on Mondays and from Wednesday to Saturday.
Book your table in advance: +39 328 643 8182

Great rivers of volcanic rubble clog the slopes on all sides of Randazzo, the town closest to the volcano's crater, only 15 kilometers away. However, the medieval village itself, built entirely of lava, has somehow survived Etna's eruptions. Despite its deadly closeness, the town has never been consumed, despite an eruption that came perilously near in 1981.
Unfortunately, Randazzo was extensively bombarded as one of the German troops' primary advanced positions during their defense of Sicily in 1943, and most of the lava-built churches and palaces you'll see here, originally dated from the affluent 13th-16th-century period, are the product of thorough repair.
The three crenelated churches, Basilica di Santa Maria Asunta, Chiesa di San Nicolo, and Chiesa di San Martino, which took turns serving as the town cathedral in the 16th century, are the main attractions.
You will be admiring Abruzzo's buildings from the outside because they open late in the afternoon and you can't wait for that because there's still a lot of ground to cover today.
Basilica di Santa Maria is a massive Catalan-Gothic church, with bits of volcanic rock in its walls and a magnificent carved gateway with vine ornamentation. Inside, the nave soars between stunning black lava columns.
This impressive church is open daily from 8.30 am to 12.30 pm, then from 4 to 7 pm.

The church of San Martino, located on the northern outskirts of town, is renowned for its rebuilt 14th-century campanile, which is intricately patterned in black and white stone.
Chiesa di San Martino is open daily from 8.30 am to 12.30 pm, then from 4 to 7 pm.

As you cross the border into the Catania province, you will notice the numerous church spires and the tall, ruined fortress of Castiglione di Sicilia.
It's easy to lose track of time wandering the quiet streets of this old mountain settlement, which meander up to a small piazza at the top of town. There, a flight of steps leads up to the shattered castle.

The hilltop ruins are known as Castelluccio, Fortezza Greca or Castello Piccolo. While there's not much left to see from the old fortress, it's worth the stop for the grand panoramic views.
This place is always open.

Cuba of Santa Domenica or La Cuba is a perfectly symmetrical 8th-century Byzantine church made of lava rocks. It's an interesting sight because its shape resembles that of a mosque rather than one of a Christian church.
You cannot step into the church but you can look through the gates to see its interior.

The ski resort of Piano Provenzano was destroyed in the 2002 Etna eruption but the spot still offers spectacular vistas of the Nebrodi Alps. Notice the burned bones of trees sprouting from a river of hardened lava.

The vistas are considerably better by the battered-looking Rifugio Citelli so stop to take some photos from here, also.

Although a bit pricey, the dinner will be fantastic and Rifugio Sapienza is definitely the best place to stop before going up the Etna volcano.
The restaurant is open daily from 12 to 3 pm, then from 7.30 to 10.30 pm.

Enjoy a good night's sleep. Tomorrow is another full day that will take you from the top of Etna back to sea level.