Day 2 on the way: White Sea, dinner in Apatity and overnight in Murmansk.

Let's turn for a while in the direction of the town of Kem. It is situated on the river bank at the top of Kemsk bay - from there to the sea is about 12 km more. The tiny village of Rabocheostrovsk huddles on the seashore. From there the passenger ships depart to the Solovetsky islands. Let's stop here for half an hour - to observe white whales and seals, to listen to the whistling wind, to breathe the smell of the sea.
By the way, in 2005 the shooting of the drama "The Island" was held in Rabochaostrovsk. The scenery for the film by Pavel Lungin became a trademark of the settlement.

Next to the pier there is Kemska volost restaurant - you must be hungry by now, so it's time to have a hearty lunch. Prices here are higher than average, but beautiful views of the White Sea and not bad menu are disarming.

So, the momentous occasion! Crossing the Arctic Circle. Don't worry, you won't miss this moment: a stele with an observation deck symbolically separates the Arctic from more southern latitudes.

The scenery is getting more and more interesting. Here we are crossing the turbulent Pirenga River. It is not an ordinary river. Its 4-kilometer part from the dam up to Imandra lake (you will cross it on your way) doesn't freeze all the year round. Why is it so? It is a big mystery. Either because of the locks or the streams flowing into the river are "guilty". The fact remains that the river is open all year round and it is a real gift for local fishermen.

I suggest having dinner in Apatity, in one of the best local cafes - "Jaga". The pizzeria pleasantly surprises with a stylish interior and the quality of food: fragrant pizza on a good thin dough has won the heart of more than one traveler.

Finally we're in Murmansk! The soft bed in the hotel will be a reward for long hours on the road. Sleep well: tomorrow begins your adventures on the Kola Peninsula!