A Trip to Zeus’ Man-Cave and a Gladiators’ Stadium

If you thought the Temple of Zeus at Euromos was pretty cool, this one is even better. Unlike Euromos though, this site is really popular which is why you’re visiting first thing in the morning.
Built around 550BC, the Temple of Apollo was once one of the largest structures in ancient Greece (twice the size of the Parthenon at Athens) measuring 51x110 meters and decorated with around 122 giant columns and carved sculptures.
Sadly only 3 of the columns remain standing today, but they’re still incredibly impressive. Stand next to one of them and look up to the sky to really appreciate the scale of these gigantic structures.
This temple was also the largest sanctuary within the city of Miletus (which you’ll visit later today). A 16km road (the Sacred Way) once linked the city to the temple and was trekked by thousands of pilgrims across the Mediterranean who came to the sacred spring in the temple to hear the prophecies of the Oracle. One of its most famous visitors was Alexander the Great who believed that the Oracle accurately predicted his many conquests.
Once you’ve bought your ticket at the entrance, and marvelled at the gigantic columns, you can go down a couple of covered hallways that will take you to the site of the ancient spring (now covered up) where pilgrims would hear the prophesies. Nearby is a giant sculptured Medusa and a circular alter where pilgrims used to offer their sacrifices to the Oracle (even in Roman times, there was no such thing as free advice!). And just down from here, is the remains of what was once the Sacred Way that led to Miletus.

Walk back to the car.

Miletus was once a thriving seaport (the coastline was once much closer to the city than it is today) and one of the wealthiest cities in ancient Greece. It was continuously inhabited until the 15th Century when the silting of the harbour negated its value as a trading port and so it was abandoned.
The real star of the show here is the huge theatre, designed to accommodate over 15,000 spectators. Originally constructed by the Greeks, it was enlarged and ‘upgraded’ by the Romans to have a more decorative façade, lots of sculptures, and fancy marble flooring. To make it more suitable for gladiatorial contests, some of the bottom tiers of seating were removed and a parapet installed to protect the spectators from the fights. An imperial box was also added where the emperor and other royalty would sit. If you look at some of the seats in the front rows, you can see that there are carved inscriptions indicating which seats are reserved for important guests.
Take a seat in the top row and check out the view. At the time, the theatre was on the seafront so that spectators could admire the wonderful vistas between the fights. You can also walk around, and under, the theatre seating and down the passageways; here it’s easy to imagine these dark, narrow, spaces full of fearful gladiators (slaves) awaiting their fate, which gives the place an eerie feel. You can also see some of the cells where the wild animals, and presumably the gladiators, were housed.
Buy a ticket at the entrance to explore this incredible place.

Situated on a shady verandah overlooking the river, this All-Day Breakfast House might sound like a greasy spoon cafe, but it not. There’s no bacon, beans, or fried bread here; just a large selection of tasty mezzes (small plates). The Turkish breakfast is a big deal for local people and something that families spend a long time lingering over. It’s also my favourite Turkish meal of the day and here you’ll have everything from olives, cheeses, and salads to cured meats, scrambled eggs, spicy sausage, jams, pancakes, and yoghurts, most of which is grown or produced on their organic farm. It’s much more of a lunch than a breakfast so enjoy the feast.

This is a really interesting museum that showcases the history of olive oil from the Bronze Age to the Greek and Roman eras, through the Industrial Revolution, to modern times. It’s based around a collection of artifacts collected by the museum owners over 30 years and displays include not just equipment relating to olive oil production, but the ways in which the oil has been used; as a fuel, beauty product and medicine, as well as a culinary product. The displays are in English as well as Turkish, and the models make it a fun experience for kids.

Yes, it’s another cave, but you can swim in this one! Follow the signs to Zeus Magarasi and park next to the souvenir stalls. From here, there’s a boardwalk that will take you to the cave entrance and steps that lead down into the water. Be warned - compared to the sea, the water is pretty chilly, but very refreshing if you’re travelling in the heat of the summer. As you’re bobbing around in this fresh spring water, here’s something to reflect on: according to local mythology, this was Zeus’ ‘man-cave’ where he snuck away from his wife Hera and entertained the village girls. He even managed to get the goddess Aphrodite to bathe with him here. It just needs a beer fridge and a dartboard now.

This is a traditional Turkish guesthouse set in a beautiful, landscaped garden in Guzelcamli. The service is friendly, the breakfast is excellent, and there are shady places all around where you can relax in peace in a deckchair and enjoy the early evening.

It’s a short walk to the seafront where restaurants line the narrow pebble beach, and the air is full of the smell of charcoal-grilled fish. If you can, try and time your visit with sunset, as it’s pretty spectacular here.
Keyf I Balik restaurant has a huge range of fish and seafood on offer, and you can choose what you fancy from the large fridge display. Try a plate of calamari – crispy and tender – or the plump, juicy mussels. It’s a popular place so it’s worth ringing in advance to make a reservation (+902566461494) and ask for one of the beach tables.

Return to the hotel.